After enjoying the uncompromising qualities of Lindwedel's Norton a few weeks ago, I tasted some 2008 Stone Hill Norton. The astonishingly deep inky color and viscosity blew me away. The flavors were balanced and smoothed into a velvety richness that you wouldn't expect from a California Cab from the same year. Really a worthy accomplishment.
However, I think Stone Hill missed the whole point of Norton. The Lindwedel Norton's massive spice is the birthright of the grape that a Virginia landowner named Norton developed the early 1800s, inspired by Thomas Jefferson's repeat failed attempts to propagate a native North American grape that could rival the wines of Europe. When the spice of Lindwedel's Norton hits your tongue, you are transported nearly two centuries into the past.
By the way, Lindwedel is not the only winery that achieves this transmutation. Native Stone and Baltimore Bend also achieve these results.
In any case, I really enjoyed the Stone Hill Norton, and I discovered that Norton can be paired with many different kinds of food due to the spice. A Cab will go with steak or lamb, but a Norton can also pair with chicken or tofu with spinach and red kidney beans seasoned with cardamom and hot peppers.
However, I think Stone Hill missed the whole point of Norton. The Lindwedel Norton's massive spice is the birthright of the grape that a Virginia landowner named Norton developed the early 1800s, inspired by Thomas Jefferson's repeat failed attempts to propagate a native North American grape that could rival the wines of Europe. When the spice of Lindwedel's Norton hits your tongue, you are transported nearly two centuries into the past.
By the way, Lindwedel is not the only winery that achieves this transmutation. Native Stone and Baltimore Bend also achieve these results.
In any case, I really enjoyed the Stone Hill Norton, and I discovered that Norton can be paired with many different kinds of food due to the spice. A Cab will go with steak or lamb, but a Norton can also pair with chicken or tofu with spinach and red kidney beans seasoned with cardamom and hot peppers.
By the way, the references to the 19th century come from my reading of The Wild Vine by Todd Kliman, an experiential history of the Norton grape.
2 comments:
Native Stone winery is now closed. Bummer. Have you tried Missouri Norton wines from Westphalia, Peaceful Bend and Heinrichshaus? I'd like to hear your take on these. 257 Norton wineries in 27 states to date. You'll be surprised that other than Virginia, ~ Texas, Alabama, Georgia and Pennsylvania also have some remarkable Norton examples.
Thanks, TNWT, for reading and commenting. It's truly a blow to learn that Native Stone has closed. I still have one bottle of its Norton. Last year, I glibly pronounced it "the best Norton ever": http://edpeaco.blogspot.com/2011/05/best-norton-ever.html
I love Heinrich's Norton and intend to visit Peaceful Bend this year.
I regained interest in Nortons a few years ago when the major Missouri wineries found a way to smooth out the spiciness. Then I realized that we should be proud of our spicy Norton. So, I enjoy both styles.
If you'd like to continue this conversation, please do so here or e-mail me at EdPeaco(at)gmail.com. It's clear that you have broad knowledge of the grape.
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