On the evening we dropped by, tenor saxophonist Arnie Krakowski and the Les Harris Jr. trio were playing upstairs, and we sat downstairs so we could chat freely. It was one of the few times, maybe the only time, when I went out to hear jazz but allowed it to become background music, and I found it really enjoyable as we talked.
Krakowski's laid-back, easygoing, swinging solos wafted down the stairwell and made me think of late Lester Young.
Portsmouth, population 20,000, has a bar with live music seven nights a weeks, mostly jazz. An advanced civilization, to be sure.