Terre Beau: just wine, no nonsense

John Tulipana

John Tulipana of Terre Beau Winery and Vineyard in Dover makes and sells wine his way. He learned winemaking from his father, of Sicilian heritage.

"Dad made wine because he liked to drink it," Tulipana said. This practical approach popped up in conversation about the craft: "I don't use oak. I don't have time to babysit it."

One thing he learned from his father was manifested in one of the Norton offerings. Part of the 2009 harvest was processed with the stems, the rest without. I did not expect the Norton with stems to be delicate and smooth, but it was. The Norton without stems had a more vibrant fruit emphasis.

The Chardonel was made sweet, but the floral effects in the nose and on the tongue surprised me and made this Chardonel stand out.

Ask about K.C., an intensely fruity blend of dry reds that was not available except for tasting because it had not yet been bottled.

Tulipana chose unexpected decor in the tasting room: posters of the Rat Pack performers and a vintage American flag.

Terre Beau (below) was the first of two wineries we visited that are housed in former churches. This place was built in 1858 by Presbyterians and acquired in 1904 by the Catholic parish.