Monday, April 30, 2012

Lewsi's wine that tastes sweet but isn't

Winemakers often stake out positions on craft based on principles that are difficult for bystanders to understand. I have heard vintners say they will make only red wines, or they will never use oak to age wines. Ken Lewis of Lewsi Winery west of Branson says he refuses to sweeten his wines before or after completion of fermentation.

As an amateur winemaker, I have learned that the addition of 1 percent sugar will soften and balance the acid in the wine I make form St. Vincent grapes that grow in the back yard. So, I don't understand why Ken insists on refraining from all sweetening measures.

In any case, Ken says his goal is to rely on the resources of the grapes to achieve appealing results, and he has succeeded on his own terms. Last weekend, I had a chance to reacquaint myself with one of his wines that I now understand is a standout example of his approach.

Lewsi's Virgin Bluff Red, a blend of Chambourcin and catawba, may suggest a semisweet wine, but it's not at all sweet in terms of added sugar. Instead, the assertive fruit of the catawba, probably left on the skins an extra day or two, creates the sweet effect.

I usually don't go for sweet wines, but I like Virgin Bluff Red. And no wonder — it's not sweet.

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