Lewsi Winery: uncompromising yet friendly

In recent weeks I have had a chance to spend some time with Lewsi wines by Ken and Patty Lewis. Lewsi Winery, which they named by transposing the last two letters of their name, just for fun, is located about 15 miles west from Branson on Missouri 76, then left on Missouri Y and right on Long Bend Road.

Ken takes an approach to winemaking that you don't see very often: uncompromising. Or at least more or less uncompromising. He sticks to his policy of no sweetening, just getting what the grapes give him — but he presents his point of view, and his wines, in a friendly way.

A good example of his approach is Virgin Bluff Red, a blend of Chambourcin and catawba that tastes like a semisweet wine but actually is bone dry. I wrote about this wine a few months ago, but I have since tasted others.

Virgin Bluff White (Elvira): Until recently, I had neither tasted nor heard of this grape, but it's a triumph of mid-American winemaking with a nonstandard variety. Juicy with mellow citrus. 

Moonsong Blush (catawba): Most catawba is sweetened to some extent, but if you've ever wondered how a dry catawba might taste, this is it. I don't like heavily sweetened catawba, but a little sugar takes the edge off this grape's acidity. Confession: I have stirred a micro-dash of generic Splenda into each glass of Moonsong Blush I drink, with really satisfying results. 
 
Reeds Spring Red (Chambourcin): The incredible nose and spice of this grape is fully realized. I've tasted Chambourcins (including my own) that soften that spiciness, but Ken embraces it. I ate a piece of Lindt chili dark chocolate with this wine. The muted heat of the chocolate lingered along with the spice of the wine, creating a pleasant accommodation.

Ozark Velvet (Frontenac): This Frontenac reminds me of unoaked Norton, but softer. It's weird to realize that this wine probably has been made without tweaking or sweetening, yet the result is rich and soft — nothing unruly here. This result must be the true flavor profile of the grape. What other way would Ken make it?

Lewsi's wine that tastes sweet but isn't

Winemakers often stake out positions on craft based on principles that are difficult for bystanders to understand. I have heard vintners say they will make only red wines, or they will never use oak to age wines. Ken Lewis of Lewsi Winery west of Branson says he refuses to sweeten his wines before or after completion of fermentation.

As an amateur winemaker, I have learned that the addition of 1 percent sugar will soften and balance the acid in the wine I make form St. Vincent grapes that grow in the back yard. So, I don't understand why Ken insists on refraining from all sweetening measures.

In any case, Ken says his goal is to rely on the resources of the grapes to achieve appealing results, and he has succeeded on his own terms. Last weekend, I had a chance to reacquaint myself with one of his wines that I now understand is a standout example of his approach.

Lewsi's Virgin Bluff Red, a blend of Chambourcin and catawba, may suggest a semisweet wine, but it's not at all sweet in terms of added sugar. Instead, the assertive fruit of the catawba, probably left on the skins an extra day or two, creates the sweet effect.

I usually don't go for sweet wines, but I like Virgin Bluff Red. And no wonder — it's not sweet.