Friday, September 16, 2011

Dirt-cheap white wines

In a recent post, I reminded everyone that summer was not over yet, and the days were still hot even though the temperature was being expressed in just two digits. Therefore, I wrote, we should still consider Missouri white wines as an enjoyable pairing with the weather.

This week, temps have tanked, and it’s looking more like pre-autumn. This is the stage when I am making the transition from whites to reds, but I’m not all the way there yet. If you feel the same way, you still may be in the market for white wine just to tide you over into the cooler months when red wine rules. If so, you may want to hedge your temporary investment in whites. To that end, I have put together some notes for the cheapest whites available that remain borderline palatable.

I will set the floor for dirt-cheap quality above the boxed Franzia and Vendange offerings, which have more to do with chemical engineering than with grapes. I will set the ceiling at $3 a bottle.

Within these parameters, I see a simple grouping of borderline palatable wines: the Charles Shaw selections at Trader Joe’s and Walmart’s portfolio of Oak Leaf wines. Most supermarket chains have their own dirt-cheap lines, but why complicate matters?

Oak Leaf

Pinot grigio: Does not suggest the variety printed on its label. It’s nondescript in classic jug fashion. However, it has a strongly fruit/floral nondescription that makes it borderline palatable. People who like pinot grigio appreciate its typically understated floral and gently acidic notes that make a balanced, sophisticated light wine. If you go for the Oak Leaf, spit out all thoughts of those nuances.

Sauvignon blanc: Clearly recognizable as a sauvignon blanc, but the tasting notes are purely grapefruit juice. This citrus-only effect — no minerals, no grass — may disappoint those who appreciate this variety, but what can you expect for $2.77?

Chardonnay: Austere, bone dry, and possibly recognizable as a chard. Without revealing the label, we shared this wine with an old friend who has high standards for wine. Weirdly, she did not reject it out of hand — far from it. Her response was, “There’s something there,” but she couldn’t say what it was. She kept drinking it, though.

Charles Shaw

Sauvignon blanc: Like the Oak Leaf, this one registers definitely as a sauvignon blanc. It delivers zesty citrus but in a more balanced manner, which is what you’d expect from a California version of this variety. If you slapped a trendily silly label on the bottle (Zappa Napa, Piney Winey?), you could charge $22, and people would love it. Instead, it’s a dirt-cheap bargain of substantial quality.

Other Charles Shaw whites: Sorry, I have not tried any others. The sauvignon blanc was a gift from a friend who frequently travels to a city with a Trader Joe’s outlet. Even so, I recommend the all the Shaws. Everything from Trader Joe’s is good, right?

4 comments:

Tim Connor said...

The Charles Shaw Pinot Grigio is pretty decent too. It has some real varietal character, that mineral edge that good P.G.s have (though less often in California) and a firm acid backbone.

The Shaw chardonnay is kind of dull, though the Australian one is better than the Californian. Some of the other Trader Joe's house labels that run a dollar or two more are worthwhile, though--the Blue Fin chardonnay at $3.99 is definitely worth the money.

Ed Peaco said...

Greetings unknown commenter,

Thanks for providing details about additional Charles Shaw wines. This is the point of social media. I look forward to reading more remarks from you and others who are willing to elaborate on these posts.

— Ed

Tim Connor said...

That was me--I wasn't trying to be anonymous, but hadn't quite figured out the system.

Ed Peaco said...

Ah, hello Tim. I've taken a few sips of the Walmart red wines, and they are sad ...